A mystery can be disturbing and undesirable or, in contrast, exciting and thrilling, luckily for Armani’s Fall 2017 couture collection it was the latter. The explicit theme of the collection was actually «Mystery» and just before his Privé show, Giorgio Armani revealed that he was dedicating it to the incredible and iconoclastic Franca Sozzani, the late Italian Vogue editor in chief, and her beautiful smile.

There’s a mysterious scent to the luxe ornate silhouettes. Heads covered and eyes concealed by the light cloak of evening. Moving with an elegant lethargy, light skirts hitting legs. This season, Giorgio Armani chose a seductive and imperial vocabulary at Armani Privé. The portrait of a lofty lady who radiates an Eighties type of beauty, like the iconic ADV campaigns Antonia Dell’Atte shot for the brand. Opulently decorative, cloaked in precious pieces. Imperial. “In a moment when there is a lot of confusion between ready to wear and couture, I wanted to exalt the mysterious and the poetry that belongs to high fashion,” the designer explained to MFF. “The pleasure of artfully evoking this vision has been lost….On the other hand, simplicity on the runway always seems very prêt-à-porter.”  

In 61 looks the designer told the story of his refined madames. During the day, they wear precise tailoring and skirts that visually cut the leg, military coats designed on the body and coats with cinched waists. A little frivolity was conceded with floral touches, pullovers in shimmering fabrics and nude T-Shirts covered in crystals. For the evening, however, there was a host of veils and layers, transparencies, and flashes: unexpected embroideries and dazzling brights. The key theme, the Giorgio Armani signature discreetly placed on the hem of a bouffant skirt or the tulle of a collar, it could also be seen on a mini-cape with a nude look. Discreetly present to testify the collection’s affinity to the Armani style tribe