If you love matte lipsticks, then you already know that matte lips can be a statement on its own. The color speaks for itself.
Can’t decide whether you are a Matte of Glossy girl?
Tom Pecheux, Creative Director of YSL Beaute, has all the answers on matte color and the new Rouge Pur Couture The Slim Sheer Matte.
What do you most like about Rouge Pur Couture The Slim Sheer Matte?
I love its beautiful matte texture, and the way it almost becomes a part of the lips. You feel like you’re wearing a lipstick, but most of the lipstick has gone, and you’re left with this beautiful flavour of colour on your lips, as if you’ve just bitten into a fruit. Or, as if you’ve applied lipstick and not removed it perfectly. But because you are applying it yourself, you have that control, you can really give yourself that perfect lip shade.
What do you like about a matte finish in general?
A matte finish gives a true sophistication, but also an edge to an overall look. Matte is super-chic, it has always been that way, and it always will be that way. I’m a huge fan of naturally glowing skin, and when you apply a matte lip colour to an otherwise glowing complexion, it emphasises the contrast between the two, and makes your skin look even more glowing.
What do you think of the packaging for The Slim and The Slim Sheer Matte?
YSL Beauté had the courage to propose packaging for The Slim that looked different, knowing it was a win or lose situation, that consumers would get into it, or they wouldn’t. And it looks like women love it, they keep coming back to buy it, so it’s great that we could introduce this new version, and that it’s not just a one-shot. Using the square shape is great – it’s perfect for a matte lipstick because that square-shaped bullet fits the Cupid’s Bow perfectly. As you use it more, the density stays the same, but the angles of the lipstick bullet get a little softer. You still have the shape, the definition, but there’s a softness.
How do you like to apply it?
As a makeup artist I will always favour a lip brush for darker shades – as you know, the two moments where brushes are an absolute essential, at least for me, are for eyeliner and dark lipstick shades, for the rest you can if you prefer use your fingers. But I see my friends applying the lipstick straight from the bullet and they do an incredible job, especially with the square shape of The Slim.
What are some different ways to wear The Slim Sheer Matte, that perhaps we might not have considered?
Like every lipstick, The Slim Sheer Matte works best when you play around with it. You can layer it to create your own colours, you can layer it by placing slightly lighter or darker colours in the center of your lips. And because the lipstick has a pretty matte finish, it’s very stable, it lasts for a while. So once that coverage is in place, if you want to upgrade your lipstick from afternoon to cocktail hour, for example, you can easily put a red on top of a pink or vice versa, or even put a nude on top of a pink, to give your original shade a new vibrancy.
Tell us something about how you created the range of 12 colours?
I wanted a range of colours that would please all women, and all our customers, that would also entice them to try something different, and find new colours that fit them. Wearing lipstick is so pleasurable. The bright and powerful colours are great, but I have also created some nude shades which are totally wearable, even though they are matte.
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Look created by @tompecheux, Global Beauty Director for YSL Beauty for Saint Laurent Fashion Show Summer 20. “My tip is to dab The Slim Sheer Matte No 106 Pure Nude on the lips, to create a transparent and natural colour and finish”. @tompecheux The Slim Sheer Matte #yslbeauty #fashionshow #tompecheux
Are these shades timeless or more trend-led, do you think?
Perhaps I’m wrong to think this way, but while we all love fashion, at the end of the day, the important thing is to discover the joy of wearing colour. Sometimes fashion is all over the place, and that’s fantastic, there shouldn’t be any diktats, we should be able to follow our own rules. But with this collection, I just wanted to make people happy. I wanted to try and give that sense of – you know when you walk into a store and find that one thing that you love so much? Or you buy something amazing at a flea market, and it only cost ten euros, and it’s the best thing you ever bought? I want people to feel that same excitement with these colours, to feel like they really wanted them. I like fashion, but I wanted to put that basic desire – to make people happy – first. So this is a collection that isn’t necessarily about fashion – it’s about what I think will make people happy.
What is the process of colour creation?
I work with my own intuition. I know a lot of people look at trend predictions or work with Pantone, but I like to work with lipstick base, wax, pigment, shimmer and, so on. I also sometimes take two, three or four lipsticks already in existence and see what happens when I mix them. By the way, this is also what I do when I’m on shoots, mixing colours on the back of my hand or in a palette to create a colour for the person I’m working with, one that really suits them. I’ve been doing this for years.
Tell me something about the Star Shades?
No101 Rouge Libre is the shade that features on Edie and Zoë in the campaign, and it’s a colour that really expresses just how makeup should be. You can wear next to nothing and still feel beautiful, attractive, feminine, wonderful. It’s quite a bold colour, but it’s not shocking, it feels effortless. There’s no lie about it, there’s just a confident attitude, and a sense of trust – what you see is what you get.
No109 Rose Dénudé – this colour is pure YSL, it’s so iconic, and it’s one of those shades that makes you think, “that will never work” but you put it on and wow, it’s so cool!
No111 Corail Explicite is a coral tangerine, which makes me think of the warmth from the sun that you get when you take a long road-trip through the south of France, cross over to Morocco from Spain.
No112 Raw Rosewood is a beige-rose colour that makes me think of a woman who is kind, sweet, friendly, of any age. It’s a colour that works on anyone and everyone.
What was your inspiration for the look for the campaign?
I wanted to show Edie and Zoë in a truthful way; without making one feature more important than another. For me, beautiful makeup application is about just enjoying, accepting and agreeing with who you are, so this what I set out to do. I didn’t want the eyes to be fighting with the lips, I wanted a synergy between them. Sometimes it’s important for me to be less of a makeup artist, and more just the person who wants to bring out the best in how others look. And I’m lucky to have the right tools to do it with.
Watch the Q&A video with Tom Pecheux, Global Beauty Director for YSL Beaute, about the makeup look of the Saint Laurent Fashion Show Summer 20.
Courtesy of YSL BEAUTE